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Ready to Wear - SS06

Terissa Teh

In one of the most controversial times for London Fashion Week, the spotlight is coming to our city once again and shining brighter than ever. Last season's failed location in Battersea Park has been swiftly moved to Knightsbridge. Mud can only be mud even if it belongs to the Chelsea sides and the glitterati sinking their heels into wet grass is so last season darling. So it's off to the Natural History museum we go, far more civilised than our traipsing nature walks through the park and certainly more cultured; altogether more fitting for the glamorous season approaching.

It's that bi-annual time of year where all those in the industry merge together to celebrate creativity and style in the famous white tents from over 170 exhibitors this season. This trade event invites registered buyers, press and members of the fashion industry to invade London for 5 days of catwalk shows and showrooms. This is an opportunity to be the first to spot the newest styles for the forthcoming season, to attend the after show parties and any other fashion shenanigans. Exhibition at LFW has grown by 20% compared to last season. Newcomers to look out for are Irish directional womenswear designer Joanne Hynes on top floor, first time recipients of New Generation sponsorship Hall Ohara, Husam El Odeh and Richard Nicoll.

This coming Fashion Week has got to be one of the most talked about in terms of its placing. And by placing we're talking order (not muddy parks). Currently the running sequence stands at New York, London, Milan and lastly Paris. There is much discussion as to whether London coming second means it gets lost amongst the attention and buzz of the other shows. Does the level of interest get lifted away from us? Ten years ago our placement was in between Milan and Paris giving us more European involvement. The British Fashion Council is striving to reclaim our rightful place. We want London to be regarded as an important show and not an after thought from New York. Many of the overseas buyers pass us by as they are saving budgets for Europe or finishing appointments over on Stateside but in doing so British designers gain a smaller audience than they deserve. This is one of the main reasons why our homegrown designers are seeking international pastures new.

So what's the deal with the whole On schedule Off schedule malarkey? It's definitely cool to be On but hard as a new designer so therefore still hot to be Off. Ironically the Off schedule is more decisive than the On which only gets released a fortnight beforehand and is even then subject to change. Naturally the shows run at least an hour late when waiting for the most anticipated guests to arrive, if you want to be truly fashion about this anyway. It's usually hard keeping this chic lot happy! On a more serious note if you are considering showing during Fashion Week, it's all about identifying the best location to be in to attract your target buyers.

Topshop is the biggest supporter of young fashion designers and due to the sheer number and high calibre in sponsorship applications, New Generation has decided to match this with an increase in the number of awards from 14 to 19 at this September's event. Amongst those are winning combo Basso and Brooke, the bold and colourful collections of Ashish and knitwear specialist Clare Tough. All this fresh talent is complimented by in store showcases across the country from established LFW designers Emma Cook, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Jens Laugesen, Robert Cary Williams, Peter Jensen and Jonathan Saunders.

What can we anticipate on this season's runways? Bright Spring Summer 2006 trends will contrast the sombre tones of Winter's dark palette. Some looks will include ethnic moods still set to run strong; with blending cultures and a mix of colour references. Key shapes will be pinafore tops, full skirts and detail in gathers and puffs. Fabrics will be natural and washed cotton, mixing and matching prints, woven fabrics and big accessories - the bigger the better.
Layering will create unexpected silhouettes, sequinned wrap dresses over jeans, rolled hems on pants, waistcoats, asymmetric jersey shapes and ties that can adjust the garments in different ways giving the wearer more choice.

It may be hard to envision Spring Summer in the April shower end to the summer we're experiencing but we can still celebrate fashion, love fashion and enjoy fashion.

Notes

New York Fashion Week takes place on September 9 to 16, Milan from September 24 to October 2 and Paris from October 2 to 11.

LFW will run on September 18 to 22 and is organised by the British Fashion Council. Created in 1983, The British Fashion Council is a non profit making limited company, which owns London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards. It is financed by industry sponsors including Arcadia Group, Condé Nast Publications, Debenhams, EMAP Fashion, Haymarket Exhibitions and Selfridges.

LFW Exhibition
18-21 September 2005

Venue
The Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 5BD

Transport
South Kensington underground station

Times
Sun 18 - Tues 20 Sept
10:00 - 18:00

Wed 21 Sept
10:00 - 17:00

Terissa can be contacted at: qt@london.com