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New Trend Direction in Vintage Fashion
Nick Davies interviews Amber Butchart of 'Beyond Retro'

New trend directions in vintage fashion: Interview with Amber Butchart

Is vintage fashion now a hallmark of progressive London club-culture? As the popularity of retro - clothing continues, Amber Butchart, Product-Coordinator for 'Beyond Retro' boutique revealed in our recent meeting how evocatively themed club nights are showcasing and directing new vintage-wear trends within fashion. Having worked in her current role for three years, Amber has acute knowledge of the vintage-wear market and its profile. In 2005, she has delivered several key interviews to the media, which now recognise vintage-wear as a massive retail growth area.

N: Amber, please explain your background in vintage fashion.

A: I work as the Product Coordinator for vintage retail company Beyond Retro in London and my role includes promoting the company. I've recently appeared on BBC News 24 - talking about vintage clothing generally, and how to spend your money wisely if you want to invest in vintage fashion. I was also interviewed in 2005 for the Observer newspaper about being a vintage buyer.

N: Why did you choose to go into vintage?

A: I've always loved the second-hand aesthetic, visiting charity shops and jumble sales ever since I was very young. All through growing up I've loved scavenging for clothes! I love finding that special something, and all of these factors really made me want to get into it.

N: Fashionista's have had a renaissance with vintage clothing over recent years - why do you think that is?

A: I think in a lot of ways it's to do with the expanding mass market and discount clothing stores like Primark and H&M that are making pretty good catwalk copies at such tiny cost, which is great because it offers more choice for women. Yet these clothes tend to be made poorly and the people that buy them understand that. This is symbolic of our throw - away culture and I think that vintage provides a nice alternative. With true vintage you will generally buy fantastic quality in a way you can't find on the high street now.

N: Who are the typical consumers of vintage clothing today?

A: Generally there are two different markets that buy vintage. You have consumers that shop generally on the high street and buy vintage when searching for that extra special piece of clothing, then you have people that are the real collectors - enthusiasts. These tend to be people who work in creative industries with an eye for detail

N: What are the current directions for Vintage?

A: For the past few years there has been a return to the very overtly feminine 1950's styles, I believe as a reaction against 1990's minimalism. The 1990's were about grunge, minimalism and androgyny, and fashion of course always moves in cycles. As 'antique' vintage pieces become rarer, underground movements are now influencing the next big trends in vintage. These cult followings always embrace a certain decade's token look, for example in the 1990's a real underground mod following occurred, and 1960's mod attire became hugely popular. Now trends has gone back even further - to 1940's and 1950's styles, and with monthly club nights happening such as 'Modern Times' or 'Rake Hell Revels' held at the Café Royal, these celebrate these decades and are very much about the details and recreating the fashion mood. Currently, vintage fashion is being widely showcased through the Burlesque revival - which is seen as progressive yet nostalgic, an old-fashioned performance style that uses cabaret and music hall. This is very much in vogue.

N: Why do you think this is?

A: Burlesque is endorsed in Britain by club-nights that frequently incorporate elements of early American strip tease such as Betty Paige or cabaret acts, re-worked for a modern audience. You mostly see female performers and occasionally men. It's very much a home- made aesthetic, which, again is a reaction against polished MTV pop culture - the burlesque concept is based on the idea that anyone can have a go and delivers a powerful narrative. Beyond Retro also collaborate with other monthly club events such as 'Kinki'. 'Kinki' holds performances throughout the evening involving loaned Beyond Retro clothes, moving locations monthly.

Q - Describe several items of clothing that define current vintage trends.

A - 1950's prom dresses, always very flattering on most body shapes, linking in with the revival of burlesque I would definitely say are very now. Vintage lingerie - this is a massive seller for us, such as corsets and petticoats from the 1950's. These tend to have really amazing lace and crepe lining - and are worn poking out or even alone. Trends in vintage always tend to reflect current trends on the high street as well - think waistcoats!

Q - What do you feel about mass high street clothing stores such as Top Shop selling vintage clothing?

A- I think there are people buying vintage because it is simply seen as a 'trend' in itself. High-end vintage shops like 'Relik' have a very refined selection of vintage pieces - just like buying designer clothes it taps into to different levels of consumer choice. I think that type of consumer wouldn't shop in a vintage concession anyway. Overall, it illustrates very nicely the way vintage has become paradoxically part of modernity.'

For more information on Beyond Retro visit www.beyondretro.com
For more information on 'Kinki' club events visit www.pixipink.com

Nick can be contacted at: nick7699@hotmail.com