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Devender Kharb - MA Graduate Collection

Devender Kharb's MA Graduate Collection showcased innovative use of drapery and pleating. Read about the background inspiration behind the collection.

What was the inspiration behind your collection?
Inspiration for my work is the female nude. I want to create silhouettes, which are sensual via cut and fabrication with architectural and sculptural effects achieved by technical or structural elaboration.

Ideas for my final project originated from my first project, in which I tried to create a geometric shape around the body by developing contour patterns for vertical lines on the body. Use of natural fabric like silk organza with these patterns resulted in a stunning silhouette and an interesting construction technique. It made me realise the potential of contour pattern making.

For this project I have taken inspiration from paper cut techniques, book binding and architecture. I find it fascinating how sheets of paper bound together move and create interesting shapes and folds and how beautiful architectural effects are achieved via paper cut techniques

What is your collection about?
Body Books: a study of body contours. The Collection is based on developing three-dimensional patterns for different contours of the body along various planes, dividing the human body in vertical, horizontal and various acute angles.

These unique and original patterns open endless possibilities, for developing very original silhouettes. Making a few minor changes like the fabric or minor manipulation like displacing the panels result in a dramatically new and original silhouette. I have used the character of the fabric material with its specific surface stimuli and tension and use these to make a structure around the body. all the garments in the collection are single tones of black, ivory, champagne brown, dark chocolate brown and bright red. I chose these colours because I believe these colour tones match or complement different skin types of men and women and as a part of my concept I wanted the dresses to be like extension of the body itself and by echoing the body's contours more closely.

What is your ideal target market for your clothes?
As a customer I would like Bjork (singer/commercial artist) to wear these dresses in her next video.

What type of mood, feel look were you looking to achieve with your collection?
Very sophisticated, classic, unique and luxury are the words that come to my mind.

What are your hopes for your entry into the fashion industry?
Bodymetrics, is a state-of-the-art body mapping system that, in theory, allows designers to create perfect fitting clothes

The machine calculates the perfect measurements by scanning the body, and working out how the light is reflected on the body.

This software is developed keeping in mind the conventional 2D pattern blocks, so presently it is catering to high street market. For this project due to time limitations it wasn't possible for me to work with this technology but I strongly believe the next development step for this technology would be to explore contour pattern making.

This technology is based on an algorithm, which has all the ingredients for developing it further to enable it to do 3D-to-3D pattern development. If given a chance I would like to work with the company to develop this technology for couture dressmaking.

What does fashion mean to you?
To me fashion means originality with a lot of attitude.

Devender can be contacted at: devenkharb@yahoo.com

Read interview with Kyung Hee Choi